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Iles Kerguelen

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November 29, 2002

We spend the afternoon near the ruins of the whaling station at Port Jeanne d'Arc. Many of us (including myself) take advantage of the opportunity to explore the area.
The whaling station operated from 1908 to 1925, with interruptions, and a recent French-heritage conservation program has rebuilt one of the buildings. Notice the ridge towering in the background: I eventually climb to the top of it (route marked in orange on map above).
One of the reasons for the location chosen for the whaling station: an ample supply of fresh water from this lovely stream.
Farther up, a small waterfall spills down the rocks.
The view across the Ravin du Charbon (Coal Ravine), through which the stream is flowing.
The short groundcover is mostly Acaena, a hardy flowering plant; the land is dotted with rabbit holes (one of the unfortunately fairly numerous introduced species in the islands).
The view from the ridge, about 100 meters above sea level (330 feet); the Shokalskiy lies at anchor off shore, and the whaling station is dwarfed by the distance. Notice the broken rock fragments that lie strewn at the edge of the cliff.
Mossy banks line the streambed in the late afternoon sun.
A closeup of the moss beside the stream.
The next day, we pay for all of this fine weather: an impenetrable fog shrouds the islands all day. We steam to a good location for wildlife, site of a macaroni penguin colony, but the thick fog and an onshore swell make a landing impossible. We return to our anchor off the French station, forced to entertain ourselves with lectures aboard ship.

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